The History of Silk Scarves: How the Square Scarf Became a Fashion Icon
The History of Silk Scarves: How the Square Scarf Became a Fashion Icon
Centuries before it became a luxury staple, the silk scarf—especially in its iconic square form—was a symbol of ceremony, elegance, and identity across ancient civilizations.
Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk by Emperor Huizong
The story begins in Ancient China, where silk was first woven over 4,000 years ago—archaic fragments dated to around 3630 BC confirm its ceremonial and elite use. For centuries, silk garments and accessories were reserved for emperors, nobles, and top officials, serving not just as decoration but as powerful symbols of status, cultural identity, and refinement.
Manuscript on silk, 2nd century BC
Western Han painting on silk was found draped over the coffin in the grave of Lady Dai (c. 168 BC) at Mawangdui near Changsha in Hunan province.
Ancient Roman culture also embraced scarves, particularly the sudarium—a square or rectangular cloth worn around the neck by soldiers and public figures. Though made from linen or wool, these early fashion accessories were more than practical. They helped establish the scarf as a unisex, symbolic item across classes and professions.
Angel with the Sudarium, Rome, Italy.
As silk spread westward via the Silk Road, the material grew more desirable in Europe.
Silk Road Trade
By the 18th and 19th centuries, European artisans in cities like Lyon and Como began creating beautifully printed silk square scarves. The square shape allowed for symmetrical, balanced designs—ideal for showcasing artistic patterns and detailed craftsmanship.
Portrait of Lord Ludwig Van Beethoven in red scarf.
Bonaparte crossing the Great St Bernard Pass
Queen Victoria, who began her reign in 1837, often wore silk scarves and shawls—especially during her mourning years—helping them become a quiet symbol of elegance and status in Victorian fashion.
Queen Victoria at Drury Lane Theatre, 15 November 1837 by Edmund Thomas Parris (1793-1873), drawn 1837.
Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres – Portrait de Madame Devaucey (sketch)
In the 20th century, the silk scarf became a high-fashion essential. Iconic fashion houses such as Hermès introduced the carré—the classic silk square scarf that helped define the look of sophisticated women across Europe and beyond. Celebrities, royals, and artists alike began incorporating square scarves into their wardrobes as a symbol of personal style and elegant self-expression.
Queen Elizabeth
In the golden era of Hollywood, silk scarves became a timeless symbol of glamour and sophistication. Icons like Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot effortlessly styled scarves around their heads or necks, adding an elegant finishing touch to their looks.
Marilyn Monroe and her silk scarf
Marilyn Monroe and her silk scarf
Brigitte Bardot wears silk scarves on her head
During World War II, square scarves often featured patriotic designs, becoming subtle symbols of national pride and solidarity.
1950s. Audrey Hepburn's Signature Look
Today, the silk square scarf remains one of the most beloved and meaningful fashion accessories for women. It represents history, artistry, and individuality. Whether worn around the neck, styled in the hair, or tied to a handbag, a silk scarf continues to tell a story—one of luxury, beauty, and timeless taste.
Scarf by Kristina Wushke – Canadian-based fashion designer
Scarf by Kristina Wushke – Canadian-based fashion designer
Scarf by Kristina Wushke – Canadian-based fashion designer
Scarf by Kristina Wushke – Canadian-based fashion designer
Scarf by Kristina Wushke – Canadian-based fashion designer
If you're curious about the meaning behind silk scarves, or simply searching for a fashion gift with depth and heritage, my collection was made with you in mind. Each design is my painting, printed on natural fabric and created to honor beauty, expression, and enduring style.
With love,
Kristina